Australia - Northern Territory Travel Review (September 2016)

Travel review and photography for Grazia UK

ROCK & SOUL

Any travel bucket list should include a trip to the Australian monolith of Uluru, one of the world’s most astonishing natural wonders. Explore its Aborginal heritage and you’ll discover it’s so much more than a stunning photo-op.

The first sight of Uluru is an unforgettable one. Enormous and isolated, it looms out of the landscape, its orange-red colour a vivid contrast to the blue of the sky. Get closer to it, and the sheer size and shape of this monolithic mass that has been sculpted by the wind and rain over millions of years, is even more astonishing – it’s easy to understand why the local Aboriginal people, the Aṉangu, consider it sacred; it feels like a special and spiritual place. After many decades of conflict and misery that saw them driven away from their home, the Aṉangu are once again the owners of the rock and the surrounding land – hence the name change from Ayers Rock to Uluru. Today, they work in partnership with the Australian government to create a destination that delivers incredible natural beauty and modern designer amenities but, uniquely, also allows visitors to connect with them and their culture.

GETTING THERE

The rock, in Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park, is 20 kilometres from the nearest sign of civilisation – the purpose-built Ayers Rock Resort – and how you make the journey to it across the wide, flat plain bears consideration. Hire a car at the resort and drive yourself, otherwise, ride up to it on a bike, motorcycle, camel – or bus. You can also fly over it in a helicopter or even skydive (see the options at ayersrockresort.com.au). Also don’t climb Uluru as it is now illegal.

ESCAPE THE CROWDS

As unmissable as Uluru is, you’re sharing it with the tourist pack – so sign up for the Patji CulturalTour led by an Aṉangu guide. Spending time with someone who belongs to the area gives you a real understanding of what the land means to the Aboriginal people. You travel in a 4x4 south from Uluru, through scrubland of eucalyptus trees and red sand dunes. There’s information and cultural stops, including afternoon tea where you can sit around a camp fire with a mug of Billy tea (brewed in a metal can), listening to your guide tell stories about their life. Our guide Sammy even got out his family album. (From £160; seittours.com.)

WHERE TO STAY

The Ayers Rock Resort is as modern as Uluru is ancient, a sleekly designed centre with facilities including a range of accommodation options (from camping to five-star), a spa, gallery, painting classes, performances, shops and tours. The top-of-the-range Sails InThe Desert Hotel is laid-back stylish; we recommend an espresso martini from the bar. (From about £230 per room, per night; (ayersrockresort.com.au).

WHERE TO EAT

There are plenty of options from reasonably priced cafes to designer dining. A fun experience is Fork & View – the top deck of an ’80s double-decker bus has been transformed into a 44-seat open-air restaurant with panoramic views. Do the Uluru Billy Tea And Tjukurpa (creation stories) Tour and you’re taken on a walk to Uluru with an Aboriginal guide, and served morning tea on board the bus. (£95 per person; seittours.com). For a truly memorable meal, book the open-air restaurant Tali Wiru, which can host up to 20 guests.Your evening begins with your Aboriginal guide collecting you from your hotel in a car and taking you to a private sand dune with superb views. Enjoy champagne and emu prosciutto crostinis while watching the sunset over Uluru, followed by a four-course Indigenous-inspired menu with dishes such as a starter of Paroo Kangaroo rillettes; each course is paired with a different Australian wine. You’ll see the stars like you’ve never seen them before and the night ends listening to a didgeridoo and drinking native wattle seed-infused hot chocolate, port and cognac around a campfire. It’s pricey, at about £185pp, but if you can afford to splash the cash, it’s an incredible way to dine (ayersrockresort.com.au).

A TOWN LIKE ALICE

The third largest town in the state of Northern Territory and the closest to Uluru, Alice Springs is considered the gateway to Australia’s Red Centre. It dates back to 1872 when the town was established as an outpost of the Overland Telegraph Line to link Adelaide in the south to Darwin in the north. While you can fly to Ayers Rock Airport, all flights call at Alice Springs and the town is worth a couple of days’ stopover.

WHAT TO DO

Hire a mountain bike (outbackcycling.com) and ride along sandy tracks to the town’sTelegraph Station museum (alicespringstelegraphstation.com.au). It’s a 90-minute round trip with wallabies and kangaroos bounding nearby. Grab a bite to eat, as well as a few souvenirs, from the Trail Station Café before cycling back. You can also head out for the day in a chauffeur-driven air-conditioned 4x4, along the West MacDonnell mountain ranges, known for its array of colours, from sunburnt oranges to maroons and purples. You’re taken to gorges and water holes for stunning views, and if the weather’s warm, swimming in pristine water (from about £68; emurun.com.au). For more culture, see some of the finest Aboriginal art – visit the collection of 1,100 artworks at the Araluen Arts Centre (araluenartscentre.nt.gov.au) or time your visit to see the Parrtjima light festival (parrtjimaaustralia.com.au), Australia’s biggest light-show installation, stretching over 2.5km of the MacDonnell Ranges. It features indigenous art and light installations that turn the surrounding hills into breathtaking pieces of art.

WHERE TO EAT

Hanuman treats you to a mix of authentic Asian flavours, including tadka dahl and a classic butter chicken infused with rose petals. Make sure to book a table in advance as it can get pretty busy (£50 a head; hanuman.com.au). However, if you’re up for something a bit different, jump in a taxi and head to Monte’s (montes.net.au). A circus-themed open-air bar, it has a boho vibe that’s lots of fun. But do arrive early if you plan on coming on a Friday – it’s definitely the local place to be.

THE LOWDOWN

WHEN TO TRAVEL

Any time between May and September, Australia’s winter, is best as the temperature is a comfortable average of 27C with little rain (in January, at the height of summer, the temperature hits 37C).This is the Australian winter, though, so the nights are cold.

WHAT TO PACK

Loose, casual clothing for when you’re on the road as well as some sturdy trainers. Bring the usual backpack, hat and sunscreen combo as well. It’s important to pack some insect repellent and even a head-net, as there are plenty of flies. Warm clothing for when the sun goes down is also a must.

WHERE TO STAY

Lasseters Hotel is comfy with a swimming pool and free spa with a sauna in the gym. (From £106 per room, per night; lasseters.com.au.)

HOW TO GET THERE

Singapore Airlines from London Heathrow to Darwin via Singapore costs from £990 economy and £2,130 premium economy, return; singaporeair.com. If you are transferring via Singapore’s Changi Airport, take a refreshing dip in the swimming pool inTerminal 1 (around £10, changiairport. com). Economy flights with Qantas from Darwin to Ayers Rock Airport (via Alice Springs), from £560 return; qantas.com. You can also fly from Sydney and Melbourne (from £189; jetstar.com/au). There are complimentary transfers to and from the airport to Ayers Rock Resort. Find more information at northernterritory.com